All beige and embroidery. So was the bet of Dior at its Haute Couture show for autumn-winter 2022/23presented this Monday in Paris, on a catwalk where the firm extolled the value of craftsmanship, rich fabrics and a range of neutral colors.
the parisian firm once again chose the Musée Rodin as the setting for its catwalkpresented among huge hand-embroidered tapestries by the Ukrainian artist Olesia Trofymenko, a work baptized “The Tree of Life”, which gives consistency to the creation of the Italian Maria Grazia Chiuri, creative director of Dior.
“The tree of life is an appeal. An alert. Transmit and make the traditions shine like the gestures that allow to recover a balanceeven if it is momentary”, explained the ‘maison’ in a statement received by the guests.
The collection, with a clearly folkloric background, transformed trees and flowers into cotton, silk and rope embroidery.
The line opened with a twenty outfits in different shades of beige and taupe from head to toe: from low-heeled ankle boots with embroidery and laces, up to long skirts and bolero jackets.
One of the first jackets seemed to be inspired by the bullfighter suit of lightsa nod to the Cruise collection that Dior presented a few weeks ago in Seville, as a tribute to the artisan roots of the Seville capital.
With Chiuri at the helm, Dior seems to have found a uniform that changes appearance each season but remains essential: a short jacket, a blouse buttoned up to the neck under a slightly puffed skirt and a flat shoe.
Lace and guipure nights
Then followed the lace and guipure dresses in bronze and black, silk muslin evening gowns in light dresses and with transparenciesand a new way of presenting the ‘New Look’ silhouette, the house’s star brand, in more modern codes with a ‘tuxedo’-type jacket and a structured skirt with ties.
At night, the dresses are covered with rounded and gown-type coats, with printed patchwork effect and in darker tones, such as burgundy, anthracite gray and black.
Most of the fabrics in the collection were handcrafted, to give more value to the precious and irregular textures of the garments, a wink from the brand to the opening of dialogues and cultures, according to the press release.
“Painting and embroidery give an emotional charge to the image of the tree of lifewhich is a symbol for different cultures and mythologies,” explained the creator in the note.
But more informal cuts were also seen, such as a series of “tartan” print dresses with pleated skirts and chiffon blouses, much more urban than what Haute Couture firms are used to in their dresses, which in recent decades have been reduced to red carpets.
The show, which followed that of Schiaparelli and Iris Van Herpen, took place on the first day of the Haute Couture presentations, which are shown in Paris between now and Thursday.
A day that was already full of celebrities, such as Emma Watson and Rita Ora, at Schiaparelli, and the model Elle Macpherson with actresses Zoe Saldaña and Naomi Watts at Dior.